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Each day, as Christmas Eve gets closer, the churches gets exponentially more crowded with pilgrims, dressed mostly in white with flashes of color, making it increasingly difficult to navigate the rough stone stairs and tunnels that connect the churches. There is chanting and singing, impromptu baptisms, and prayer everywhere.
Outside the churches, volunteers feed the pilgrims, wash their tired feet, and operate water stations where buckets and water jugs were filled, and taken back to impromptu camping spots all over the grounds around and between the churches.